September 27, 2004

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The month of September was a dry one for the garden. Fall is usually

marked by cooler temperatures and adequate rainfall. Trees and shrubs

need to go into winter with sufficient moisture to sustain them. Make

sure to water new plantings and the ones showing signs of stress when

rainfall is less than an inch a week.

Most woody plants require less moisture late in the season than they do

in the spring when new growth takes place. In the fall the new growth

slows and matures, hardening off in preparation for the colder months.

The matured growth is able to tolerate more adverse weather conditions.

The plants produce large amounts of carbohydrates that are available

for

root growth. The roots of many woody plants continue to grow in cold

soil.

Long dry spells, however can interfere with the root growth.

Although most of our trees and shrubs benefit from fertilizing in the

spring, some gardeners like to feed them in the fall. Fall feeding

should target only root growth. Stimulating too much growth will be

harmful to the plants. Any new shoot or leaf growth at this time in the

season does not have time to harden off between now and the onset of

winter. Fall feedings should only be applied after mid-October, using

half the recommended spring application.

As the annual flowers and vegetables succumb to the dryness or to

frost,

pull them up and add them to the compost pile. Fallen leaves can be

added later to make a balanced mix of green and dry materials. There is

always an abundance of material to add to a compost pile in the fall.

If

you have never tried composting, now is an excellent time to start.

Building and maintaining healthy soil is the most important factor in

gardening. Replenishing the organic matter every year will ensure

healthy plants. And the easiest and most economical organic matter to

use is compost. Compost improves the drainage of the heavy soil that is

typical to this area. It will also help the water holding capacity of

sandier soils. The many organisms that live in compost will continue to

multiply in the soil, decomposing fallen leaves and other plant debris.

Research has shown that plants grown in compost amended soil are less

prone to disease and more tolerant of insects.

A compost pile can be started right on top of bare ground. Select a

location close to the area you intend to use it or designate a corner

of

the yard for several bins or piles. Once you start composting you will

end up with 2-3 piles in various stages of decomposition. Add materials

as they become available. Try to layer or mix vegetable scraps, garden

refuse (free of disease), grass clippings and leaves. The pile should

be

at least 3x3x3 and no larger than 5x5x5. It can be free standing or

enclosed in a bin. The smaller the pieces of refuse and the more you

turn the pile the faster it will decompose. A well balanced mix will

not

give off any offensive odor.

Keep the pile moist during dry periods. It should remain damp for best

results. There is no need to add any purchased compost starter

material.

The organisms needed to start decomposition are already in the ground

under the pile. They will quickly find their way to the pile.

Finished compost will be dark brown in color and have a crumbly

consistency without large pieces of material remaining. Add the compost

to garden soil in a 2-3 inch layer and mixing it in. It can also be

used

as a mulch layer around plants. A thin layer can be spread over lawn

areas when planting grass seed as well. Compost makes an excellent

addition to potting soil. I like to add a shovel full to the soil each

time I plant something new in the garden.

Since it is the beginning of October I would be remiss in not

mentioning

deer protection. Make sure all young trees with a 2 inch caliper or

less

have trunk wrap in place. These are the trees targeted by bucks marking

their territory in preparation for the mating season. Rubbing antlers

can destroy the protective bark on these trees overnight. Vinyl tree

wrap offers the best protection and only costs a couple of dollars per

tree. It is a small price to protect your investment in landscaping.

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the

Nursery

Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op.  Questions and comments can be sent to

bethtanical@patmedia.net