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October 2002
The days are getting shorter now and the angle of the sun is changing as
well. The amount of available sunlight for the plants growing indoors is
considerably less than at other times of the year. The houseplants respond by
going into a rest period with little new growth. Watering needs will change and
the plants will not need any fertilizing until spring. Be careful not to
over-water during this rest period.
Inspect your houseplants regularly for insect pests. Isolate any plants that
have a problem. Any plants that are severely infested with any type of insect
should be thrown away. Infestations are difficult to eliminate. Most times the
best you can hope for is a reduction of some of the pest, but not complete
control. It is best not to risk contaminating all the plants in the house.
Low humidity can also cause houseplant woes. When our heating systems are
running the air is usually very dry. Leaves with brown tips can be one of the
signs of low humidity. To create more humidity you can use a humidifier, pebble
trays or try clustering plants together.
Holiday plants will also benefit from similar care. Poinsettias, amaryllis and
Christmas cactus are grown for the holidays in carefully controlled greenhouse
conditions. Then they are transported to retail stores and then to our homes.
The cultural conditions in stores and homes rarely match those of the
greenhouse, so you can expect the plants to go through a period of adjustment.
Be sure to ask for a protective sleeve or plastic bag when purchasing a holiday
plant. Cold temperatures can be particularly damaging to poinsettias. Don’t
leave these plants in the car for very long.
Once home, remove any protective sleeves and set the plants away from drafts and
heat vents. Chose a location with bright light and cool temperatures (60-68
degrees). Water only when the top few inches of the soil becomes dry. I usually
remove the decorative foil that has been placed over the pot and set the plant
in a clear plastic saucer. That way I can see the plant gets watered properly-
with no water standing in the saucer.
It seems that winter is coming early this year. So we better wrap up the garden
chores in a hurry. If you haven’t gotten the bulbs in the ground it may be too
late. The ground is pretty close to frozen. Clean up any late falling leaves
before the next storm arrives. And it is probably a good time to lay down light
mulch on the perennials. Mound up some leaves or mulch around the base of the
roses to protect the crowns. Wrap the trunks of young trees with tree wrap to
prevent sunscald and frost cracking. Maples, dogwoods and cherries are
particularly susceptible to this damage.
Hollies and other evergreens can be pruned now for holiday decorations. Pines,
fir and spruce will last for a long time after cutting. The hollies and junipers
dry out more quickly. Use them in arrangements that utilize a container that
holds them in water. Or wait to cut them closer to the holiday or event.
Spraying the greens with an anti-desiccant will help them stay fresh longer.
It has been several years since we had a snowstorm like the one last week. So
here is a refresher on how to protect some of the landscape plants. Tall narrow
evergreens such as arborvitae and upright junipers can split apart or lose limbs
from heavy wet snow. To prevent this from happening, the shrub can be tied with
twine. Snow accumulation can weigh down the branches of trees and shrubs. To
safely remove the snow to relieve the burden, use a broom in upward sweeping
motions. If branches and limbs are coated in ice let the ice melt naturally.
Hitting the icy branches usually breaks them, damaging the tree or shrub. Remove
any broken or damaged limbs promptly.
Repeated or heavy use of ice-melters can be damaging to plants, causing a
build-up of excessive salt in the soil. Use these products sparingly on
shrub-lined walkways and paths. Alternatives include sand or cat litter for
traction. A light application of fertilizer will also melt ice. Sweeping up the
excess ice melter after the walkways are clear will also help.
Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the Nursery
Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op. Questions and comments can be sent to
bethtanical@rcn.com.
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