May 8, 2006

May is such a pleasant month in the garden. The early flowering trees 

are finished blooming. Now the dogwoods, lilacs, azaleas and 

rhododendrons have their turn. Gardeners just want to be outside 

enjoying all the beauty. Spring planting is in full swing. Almost 

everything can be planted now. Beginning next week the tender annuals 

can also be planted safely without frost injury. Hold off planting 

tropicals and cold sensitive plants such as basil, eggplant, peppers, 

coleus and vinca. These plants require warm soil and nighttime 

temperatures above 55 degrees in order to thrive.

Most of the spring flowering bulbs have finished blooming. Trim off the 

dead flowers on the daffodils and tulips. Leave the foliage intact 

until 

it turns brown. It is the foliage that feeds the bulb for next year’s 

flowers. Daffodils can be divided and moved after flowering. Crowded 

clumps will produce little or no flowers. It is also a good time to 

make 

notes on where you could plant more bulbs in the fall. Having 

photographs of the garden in bloom can help. At planting time in 

October 

you will have a visual record of where you want to plant them.

The early flowering shrubs that have finished blooming can be pruned 

now. Forsythia, quince, and the spice viburnums can be trimmed back. 

When the lilacs finish blooming they can be trimmed to control their 

height. It’s more enjoyable to have the fragrant blossoms at eye and 

nose level. Cut the shrub back by no more than a third. If the bush is 

tall and needs rejuvenation, cut two or three of the oldest trunks 

close 

to the ground. This type of pruning can also help control lilac borer, 

a 

common pest.

The roses are setting flower buds and some of the early varieties are 

blooming. It is a good time for a dose of rose food. Keep an eye out 

for 

pests. Aphids like to feed on the new tender leaves and flower buds. 

They can be dislodged by spraying with water or use insecticidal soap 

to 

eliminate them. Ladybugs are a natural aphid predator that can be 

introduced to the garden as a control.

Seeding bare spots in the lawn should be completed by now. Once the 

newly seeded areas have been mowed several times, weed control can 

begin. The first defense against weeds in the lawn is don’t mow the 

grass too short. Always mow the grass to a minimum height of 2.5-3 

inches. The longer leaf blades shade out weeds and feed the grass 

roots. 

Spot treat weeds as the come up. The lawn needs about an inch of 

rainfall a week to stay green and establish deep roots. Water no more 

than once a week during dry spells.

Spring is usually a season with regular rainfall. But this year is 

following in last year’s pattern with prolonged dry spells. In my own 

backyard the grass is losing its lush green color in the areas with 

thin 

topsoil. And the maple trees have produced an enormous crop of seeds. 

Many tree species react to stressful years by producing more seed than 

usual. We need rain. Pay attention to the signs of stress in your own 

yard and supplement the irrigation as needed. Eliminate weeds, which 

compete for water and nutrients. Mulch to control weeds and hold 

moisture. Learn how to water thoroughly.

Most plants, including trees are not deep rooted. The majority of tree 

roots are in the top 18 inches of soil, with 50 % in the top 6 inches. 

Shrubs, perennials and annuals are similar. The feeder roots, those 

that 

take in the water and nutrients, are not found at the base of the plant 

but actually at what is known as the drip line. This is the area 

directly under the tip of the branches and extends beyond. The larger 

roots close to the trunk of a tree or shrub are for support.

To water efficiently, set up the hose, sprinkler or drip irrigation to 

reach these feeder roots. Water slowly until the soil is irrigated to a 

depth of 6 inches. How long this will take depends on your soil and the 

irrigation method. New plantings need this once a week when there is no 

rain. Established plants, three years or older, can go for longer 

periods without supplemental watering.

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the 

Nursery 

Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op. Questions and comments can be sent to 

bethtanical@patmedia.net <mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net> 

<mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net>