March 2003

The planting season is just around the corner. For the past couple of years we have been able to get into the garden just after mid-March. The peas were planted on St. Patrick’s Day. The onion sets and cole crops followed soon after that. We’ve been spoiled by the mild winters. It looks like this year the start of the gardening season will be delayed.
There will be plenty of time to plant the early vegetables. On average, the beginning of April is usually a better time to start planting in our area. The ground becomes workable, unfrozen and not too wet. But if the current weather pattern continues, we may still have snow on the ground come April.
In anticipation of that possibility, I’ve begun to change my normal spring gardening plan. This week I started some of the seeds inside that I would normally direct seed into the garden. When the ground is finally ready for planting I should have seedlings ready to plant. You can do this with the lettuces and greens such as endive and arugula. And since the pea planting will probably be delayed, I plan to pre-sprout the seeds before planting.
 Peas thrive in the cool weather of spring, which is why they are one of the first vegetables to be planted. They require anywhere from 55- 70 days from planting to harvesting, depending on the variety. In order to get mature peas before the hot weather arrives, you have to start early. You can pre-sprout peas by placing the seeds in damp paper towels. Put the towels in a plastic bag and set the bag in a warm place. I usually use the top of the refrigerator. They will sprout in a couple of days. You can also try starting them in peat pellets. Place one pea seed in each moistened pellet. With either method, as soon as they sprout they should be planted carefully in the garden. Plant them a couple of inches deep along a fence or trellis.
Even if we can’t plant yet or start working the soil, there are plenty of things to keep us busy in the garden. The fruit tree pruning should be accomplished this month as well as the pruning of summer flowering shrubs. Butterfly bush, abelia and spireas that bloom on new growth will all benefit from pruning now. Any old foliage that was left standing on perennials can be cut back. The ornamental grasses are also cut back in March. Prune them down to about two inches above the ground.
When the weather does start to warm, begin raking off protective mulches such as evergreen boughs and leaves. Do this gradually, just enough to expose sprouting bulbs and early perennials. You don’t want to leave the garden completely unprotected from late freezing temperatures and winter storms.
On a mild day with temperatures above 40 degrees apply a dormant oil spray on fruit trees and landscape plants. This organic control smothers eggs and young insect pests. It is especially effective on plants that have been susceptible to scale, aphids and mites. Lime sulfur is another treatment that can be applied while plants are dormant. It is specifically for diseases. It is used for fungal leaf diseases on plants such as peach trees and roses.
Spend a little time checking over the garden tools. Make sure shovels and pruners are sharpened and oiled. Get the mowers, tractors and trimmers ready. Change the oil, put in new spark plugs and fill the gas tanks. Repair the leaky hoses or replace them. Consider investing in soaker hoses, which are more efficient at delivering the water to the root zone.
Inside the houseplants are beginning active growth. Resume a feeding schedule with a water-soluble fertilizer. Houseplants can be fed every other week with a balanced fertilizer. Some find it easier to feed them every time they water. With this method dilute the suggested rate on the package to half strength. Re-pot any plants that have become pot-bound to allow room for the new growth. Choose a container that is just one size bigger-by volume it will hold twice as much soil.
Take heart! Before you know it the garden centers will be filled with pansies and primroses. Spring will come.

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the Nursery Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op.  Questions and comments can be sent to bethtanical@rcn.com