Feb 12, 2005

Spring is coming, despite that snowstorm earlier this week. There are subtle signs of spring in the landscape already. The foliage of the daffodils and other spring flowering bulbs is poking out of the ground. Buds on the early flowering trees such as the Bradford pears and cherries are beginning to swell. The flower buds of the vernal witch hazel are even beginning to unfold. And I heard a song sparrow singing in the neighborhood last week.

As the bulb foliage begins to appear keep the winter mulch in place for added protection. Gradually begin raking it back sometime next month as the weather warms. Be on the lookout for the earliest of the flowering bulbs. Snowdrops, winter aconite and some varieties of crocus often bloom in late winter, even through a light snow cover.

Late February is the time to begin pruning grape vines and fruit trees. Grapes require hard pruning back to a certain number of buds, depending on the type of trellis system they are being trained on. Fruit trees are pruned in their early years to guide them to a certain shape or structure. Subsequent years the pruning is for stimulating fruit production. Regardless of the age of the trees, dead and diseased limbs should be removed first. For specific instruction on how to prune a fruit tree it is helpful to consult a good book on pruning that has illustrations of techniques. The technique for apples and pears will be different than that for peaches and nectarines.

If you have ever tried growing tuberous begonias from the dormant tuber, you may have been disappointed in how long it took for them to bloom. To get them to bloom sooner, pot the tubers now. Plant one tuber per 4-6inch pot in pre-moistened potting soil. Set the pots in a bright location. Be patient, it may take a while before you see new foliage. Be careful not to over water, the plant won’t use much water until it develops sufficient roots.

 Once the begonia is growing place it in good sunlight, or under an artificial lighting set up such as you would use for seedlings. After the threat of all frost is past in the spring the begonias can be planted out in the garden or a large planter. Other summer flowering bulbs such as dahlias can also be started ahead of time indoors. Most won’t need as much of a head start as the begonias, however.

The seeds of cool weather vegetables should be started now. Broccoli, cauliflower and cabbage plants can be planted as early as late March, weather permitting. Plant their seeds indoors now to grow plants in time for an early spring planting. Many herbs and perennials can also be planted outside before the frost date. Starting seeds for them now is an economical way to begin an herb or perennial garden this spring.

There are several annual flowers that can survive the colder temperatures of early spring. By starting the seeds now they will be ready for planting outside mid-late April. Snapdragons, stocks, dianthus, coral-bells, ostoepernum and Marguerite daisies are some varieties to try. Diascia and nemesia, although they look dainty, are members of the snapdragon family and will hold up well in the cooler weather.

Late winter to early spring is a good time to have lawn and garden soil tested. Once the soil is workable a good sample can be gathered. If garden plants or grass have been growing poorly a soil test can determine if it is due to nutrient deficiencies or improper pH. Many garden centers will test your soil’s pH while you wait. For a complete soil analysis you can get a soil test kit from Rutgers Cooperative Extension for under $10. Results are mailed to you after a couple of weeks, including recommendations on how to correct any deficiencies.

Bring on a bit of spring indoors by forcing some branches into bloom. Cut branches from spring flowering trees and shrubs to fit in vases. Forsythia is one of the easiest shrubs to force. Crabapple, flowering cherry and fruit tree trimmings also work well. Cut the ends on an angle and put the cut branches into warm water. Change the water as necessary and re-cut the ends once or twice to keep them from sealing over. Depending on the species the flowers should open in 1-3 weeks.

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the Nursery Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op.  Questions and comments can be sent to bethtanical@patmedia.net