March 5th

Late winter is the time to be pruning fruit trees and berry plants. Start with the removal of any dead or weakened branches. Shoots that are growing straight up along side branches, common in apple and crabapple trees, need to be pruned out. These are sometimes called watersprouts and they do not produce any fruit.

In general, in the first couple of years, fruit trees are pruned to train and shape the plant. The third year and beyond they are pruned lightly to encourage fruit production. Apples, pears and cherries are trained to have a central or modified leader; the end-result resembling a Christmas tree shape. Peaches and nectarines are trained to an open vase shape to encourage good air circulation, which is important in the prevention of leaf diseases.

Consider forcing some of the pruned branches for indoor blooms. Select 3-4' long branches and cut the ends on an angle to allow good water absorption. Fill the bathtub or tall vase with tepid water and soak the branches overnight. In the morning slit the branches upward from the base 3-4" or peel the bark the same distance. Put the branches in a tall vase or bucket and change the water daily. Keep them in a room with temperatures of 65-70°F during the day and 55-60°F at night. Bright light during the day will maintain good flower color. Blossoms should open in 3-4 weeks.

Blueberry plants can be pruned to encourage fruiting. Prune out any dead or weakened canes. Select 6-8 of the most vigorous and upright growing canes for fruiting wood and remove the rest.

Bramble fruits such as blackberries and raspberries bear fruit on second year canes. Once a cane bears fruit it can be removed. Raspberries can be thinned to 12" rows and canes 6" apart, saving the best canes. Blackberries are pruned by cutting the lateral branches back to about a foot. Ever-bearing raspberry plants should be mowed to 2-3" from the ground after they finish bearing in the fall.

Grapes require severe pruning every year, as they are extremely vigorous growers. They are best managed if trained to a four-arm trellis system when first planted. One cane is saved from those that grew near the base of each arm the previous summer. This cane is cut back to about ten buds. Fruit in the coming season will develop from these buds. It is also important to create renewal spurs for the following year. Select a cane from each arm near the main trunk and cut it back to two buds. It will grow vigorously over the summer and be used next year for the fruiting cane. All other growth on the vine should be removed.

To harvest quality fruit from the home orchard it is usually necessary to follow a spray schedule for pests and diseases. These are available from Rutgers Cooperative Extension free of charge. Some diseases can be avoided by planting resistant fruit tree varieties. The first line of defense for insect pests is the application of a dormant oil spray. This should be applied before the buds swell and when the temperature is above 40°F.

Traditionalists will be looking to plant their spring peas on St. Patrick's Day. In this area it is usually too wet to plant or we have snow on the ground! The beginning of April is much more typical. Most gardening experts recommend planting as soon as the ground can be worked. To test the soil, grab a handful of dirt and gently squeeze it into a ball. If the ball breaks apart easily the soil is considered workable. If the ball is sticky and elastic the soil is too wet for planting.

Onion sets and strawberry plants can also be planted as soon as the ground can be worked. Broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower plants can be moved to a cold frame or other transitional location to adapt them to colder temperatures before planting them out in the garden.

Seeds of plants that require 8 weeks to develop before planting outside can be started indoors now. This includes tomatoes, peppers, eggplant and most annuals and perennials.

As the days are lengthening and the sun rises higher in the sky, most houseplants will resume active growth. Their water and nutrient needs will increase. Resume fertilizing this month and continue through the month of October. Use an all- purpose balanced soluble fertilizer every other week. If you prefer weekly feeding, dilute the solution to half-strength according to the package directions.

We are fortunate to live within driving distance to one of the most renowned flower shows in the world. The 2001 Philadelphia Flower Show, "Great Gardeners of the World", runs March 4 -March 11 at the Pennsylvania Convention Center located at 12th and Arch Sts. Don't miss it!

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the Nursery Manager at the Belle Mead Farmer's Coop. Questions and comments can be sent to bethtanical@hotmail.com