Aug 28 2006

 

The late summer flower garden can sometimes be a little disappointing.

Many perennials are finished flowering and the annuals have been

Through the wear and tear of summer heat and storms. And the autumn perennials,

asters and chrysanthemums, won’t be blooming for a couple of weeks.

 

Deadheading the spent flowers will keep perennials blooming for a

Longer period of time. But after several flushes of bloom they may be in need

of good pruning. Yarrows, salvias and coneflowers are good candidates

for this type of pruning. The brown leaves and stems can be cut back to

green growth. You’ll find new growth at the base of the plants.

Sometimes the new growth will flourish enough and the plant will bloom

again in the fall.

 

Continue to deadhead and trim the annual flowers as well to keep them

looking their best. Cut back any broken, leggy or wilted growth to

encourage new strong shoots. Most of the annuals will reach their peak

size and flowering in September putting on a spectacular display.

 

Ornamental grasses are one group of plants that look great in the late

summer. They have reached their full height and many of them begin to

bloom in August. The grasses look great with summer blooming perennials

and most of the species are deer resistant. It is a good time to select

these grasses and add them to the garden. They can be planted any time

during the growing season up until a couple of weeks before the ground

freezes.

 

Late summer is the time to think about propagating some of your

favorite plants for next year. Many of the annuals and herbs that will succumb

to frost can be grown in the home during winter. And taking cuttings at

this point in the season can propagate many shrubs.

 

The tender herbs such as rosemary and lemon verbena will need to be

over-wintered indoors. If the plant is a manageable size it can be

potted up and readied for its move inside. Gradually decrease the

sunlight exposure by moving the plant into the shade. When the plant is

brought into the house a few weeks from now it will be less likely to

drop leaves from the change in light exposure.

 

Taking cuttings is the best way to save tender plants that are

semi-woody and too big to move inside. Select healthy shoots that are

3-4” long. Remove the leaves from the bottom half of the cutting. Dip

the cut end into rooting hormone and plant it into sterile media that

has been pre-moistened. Vermiculite, sand or a soil-less seed-starting

mix is a good choice for media. A mini greenhouse can be created around

the cuttings with a clear plastic bag. Keep the potted cuttings in an

area with indirect light. The media should be kept moist and the

plastic

vented. After several weeks the cuttings should start to root. Once

rooted the cutting can be moved to bright light and the plastic

removed.

As the plants grow pinch the tips to create well branched specimens.

 

Plants without woody stems can be rooted easily in water. Basil, mint,

and coleus are easy to root in water. Remove the lower leaves of the

cutting so that only the stem is in the water. Change the water

periodically to prevent any algae growth. After a few weeks roots will

grow. Pot up these cuttings when the root growth is at least equal to

half of the leaf growth.

 

Sometimes you will find seedlings of a favorite plant near its parent.

These too can be potted up or moved to another part of the garden if it

is a hardy plant. Dig up the entire root ball with soil when you

transplant these seedlings in the yard to reduce transplant shock.

Water the seedling after planting and mulch to keep the soil moist.

 

September is considered the best time to plant grass seed or renovate

the lawn in our area. Prepare the area for seeding now. Eliminate any

weeds removing them by hand or with an herbicide. If you choose to use

an herbicide let the product completely kill the weeds before you rake

or pull them out. It will take at least a week for the product to do

the job.

 

Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the

Nursery

Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op. Questions and comments can be sent to

bethtanical@patmedia.net <mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net>

<mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net>