|
|
|
8/2/2006 As I sit to write this week’s column we are at the beginning of another heat wave, possibly the worst of the summer. Triple digit temperatures are tough on the plants as well as the gardeners who tend to them. I’ve been checking all my container plants and hanging baskets early in the day, giving them a good drink to cope with the day’s expected heat. In the evening when it’s cooler the vegetable garden and berry patch get checked, picking what is ripe. If there is time some weeds get pulled or I add mulch to any bare spots. And I just make notes on areas that will need more attention when the weather breaks.
It is too hot during the day to be applying pesticides or deer repellents. If the temperature is 90 degrees or above these products can burn the foliage or flowers. Wait until evening if it is necessary to spray products for insects or deer. You can treat any weeds that are in active growth.
Two common weeds that are prevalent now in the lawn and garden areas are crabgrass and nut sedge. Both are grassy weeds that grow fast during hot weather wherever there was a bare spot. Broadleaf weed killers are not effective on these kinds of grassy weeds. An herbicide specific to crabgrass and other grassy weeds is recommended for control. Fortunately, crabgrass and nut sedge can be sprayed with the same product.
Crabgrass can range from a small plant just a couple of inches across to larger specimens of a foot or more at maturity. It is an annual that sets lots of seed to ensure a good crop the following year. The broad, course leaves can be prostrate (resembling a crab) to upright depending on the age and variety of the plant. Nut sedge grows upright to a height of a foot or more. It is easy to spot in the lawn and garden with its bright green leaves. A member of the sedge family, each leaf has a distinct mid-rib so that it looks folded. Nut sedge produces a large seed head. It also spreads under the soil from nutlets in the root system.
In the garden beds both of these grassy weeds can be pulled up by hand. Try to weed them out as they appear or at least before they set seed. Once they go to seed they will be back next year for sure.
The first week of August is the time to set out seedlings and sow seeds for a crop of fall vegetables. Any bare spaces in the garden from early crops that are finished can be used again. Refresh the soil by adding a layer of compost or fertilizer. Plant a different type of vegetable in the space. For example in the space that had broccoli you could try lettuce or carrots. Different types of vegetables have different nutrient needs and planting the same crop in the same space twice in the same season usually yields poor results.
Any vegetable plant or seed that needs 60 days or less until harvest would be worth trying for a fall crop. Broccoli, cabbage and Brussels sprouts should be planted from seedlings. All three will tolerate light frost in the fall. They actually will have a sweeter flavor after a frost. Carrots, peas and beans can be direct seeded. Just be sure to pick pea and bean varieties that have short harvest dates. Carrots can stay in the ground through the cold months if they are mulched with straw.
Arugula, lettuce and spinach all grow quickly and can be planted over the next couple of weeks. These leafy greens can be planted in partial shade to protect them from the heat. Try planting them in the shade of some of the taller plants in the garden. Or set up a shade cloth over the planting bed.
All these late plantings will benefit from mulch to conserve moisture and keep the soil cooler. Untreated grass clippings or clean straw are good choices for mulch. Keep the seedbeds and new seedlings watered during hot days until they get established. Weeds will be minimal when you plant at this late in the season.
Beth Nardone, botanist, is a resident of Hillsborough and is the Nursery Manager at the Belle Mead Co-Op. Questions and comments can be sent to bethtanical@patmedia.net <mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net> <mailto:bethtanical@patmedia.net> |