|
|
|
March 21, 2005 Spring has officially arrived! Although the nights are still cold, the days are becoming more comfortable for working in the garden. In most areas the ground is thawed and workable. Go ahead and plant the garden peas, sweet peas and larkspur. By the end of the month broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower and other cole crop seedlings can also be planted. Transplants of these vegetable varieties will be arriving in garden centers over the next few weeks. Onion sets and leeks can also be planted now. The small onion bulbs can be planted 2-4 inches apart. When the plants reach the size of a pencil, thin out every other plant to use as scallions. The remaining plants can be left to grow to full size onions. Spinach seeds need to be planted in very early spring. As soon as the temperature gets hot the plants will bolt to seed. Seeds of radish, carrot, beet, lettuce and other salad greens can be planted now as well. Small successive sowings of these varieties every 2-3 weeks will give you an extended harvest. Early spring is also the time to start a strawberry patch. Strawberry plants are sold dormant, usually in bundles. Two types are readily available. The June-bearing varieties bear large crops of berries all at one time- sometime during the month of June. The day-neutrals, sometimes called ever-bearing, bear almost continuously over the summer. These plants give you smaller amounts of fruit at each picking. Strawberry plants should be planted 18-24 inches apart with at least 36 inches between rows. They require well-drained soil. Plant strawberries so that the long roots are spread out evenly and the crown sits just above the soil surface. Planting too shallow or too deep will result in crop failure. Mulch between the plants with straw. The first season’s flowers should all be removed so that no fruit is formed. Removal of the flowers allows the plant to establish a strong root system and healthy leaves to support fruit the following year. March through early April is the time to feed most of the garden plants. An application of fertilizer now will work down into the soil with the spring rains. As the plants break dormancy and begin active growth the nutrients will be available. Asparagus, fruits trees and berry plants, perennials, groundcovers as well as evergreen and deciduous trees and shrubs can all be fertilized now. Keep in mind that many trees and shrubs growing in lawn areas that are fertilized regularly probably won’t need to be fed. If the tree or shrub is growing well and has good color, it probably doesn’t need fertilizer. A soil test will tell you exactly which fertilizer formula to use. Without a test, you can apply a 5-10-5 fertilizer as an all-purpose formula for most garden plants. Trees and shrubs can have the balanced fertilizer 10-10-10. Application rates should be explained on the product label. Organic fertilizers have the added benefit of feeding over a longer period of time and usually contain important micronutrients. If your lawn was decimated by last year’s grub infestation, you may need to spread some grass seed. Otherwise, large bare spots will be fertile ground for weed seeds. Bare patches can be seeded now with a good quality seed blend. Rake up any dead grass and scratch up the soil. The seed can be covered with light straw mulch. Avoid using crabgrass preventer on newly seeded areas of the lawn. If crabgrass is a concern, you can use a product specifically for newly seeded lawns. Late March is the time to prune roses, before the new buds begin to open. Cut off any wintered damaged canes. Canes with signs of disease should also be removed. Prune out branches that are rubbing against another, or will be during the growing season. Eliminate the weaker branch in favor of the stronger. Hybrid tea and floribunda roses, the most popular types, can be pruned to a height of 18 inches. Don’t be afraid to prune a rose bush shorter than that if necessary. Pruning will invigorate the bush, stimulating new lush growth. Once the new leaves start growing give the rose it’s first feeding. Start to remove winter mulch from the crowns of roses, bulbs and perennials. Gradually rake it back as the weather warms over the next few weeks. The early blooming perennials and bulbs will be flowering soon.
|